Can You Use A 120v Switch For 12v

Topic: Tin I supersede 12v lite switches with 110v house switches?

---

Posted Past: tommymsw on 02/eighteen/eighteen 11:30am I am sure this has been asked, but I have found little to no info on the internet. Tin can I replace 12v light switches with 110v house switches?

ane. To save money
ii. I like the look of a make clean, white rocker switch over the kind of ugly lilliputian switches you see in many RVs.

I feel similar my RV looks cute and like a house, but then I take these actually ugly (my stance) calorie-free switches that look like they vest in a shed.

I know I "can" switch them... But what is the downfall to doing so? Seems like everybody would if there was no problem with it.

---

Posted By: kerrlakeRoo on 02/18/18 11:51am Every bit far equally the switch existence capable, yes.
Simply equally to physically doing it, I propose y'all take the cover plate off one of your household switches. Look at the size of the box it is contained in. I dont think you volition notice that much space available in your motorhome at all those switch locations.
There are many different types of electrical switches available in many different appearances. Endeavour searching Amazon for some different types that are compact and made for mobile uses, aircraft and marine units immediately come to mind for applications to explore.

---

Posted By: Chris Bryant on 02/xviii/18 12:07pm At that place is actually a huge difference in switching ac and dc voltages, so you need to expect for a dc rating on the switch.

---

-- Chris Bryant

---

Posted By: 2oldman on 02/xviii/xviii 12:15pm But concern is amperage. I uncertainty lighting will present any problem there.

---

Posted By: pianotuna on 02/18/eighteen 12:33pm How-do-you-do,

I'd purchase dc rated switches. Size is a trouble if going from RV to household.

---

Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 pes Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Get-go.

---

Posted By: tenbear on 02/18/eighteen 02:27pm You probably don't have to mountain the household switch in a box, 12v is not as dangerous equally 110v. I would embrace the exposed connections with some electric record but in instance something came in contact with the connection screws.

---

Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and i Territory

---

Posted By: KD4UPL on 02/18/18 03:08pm Typical house switches are not rated for DC. When you break the DC excursion information technology'southward much harder to extinguish the arc. An Air-conditioning arc extinguishes itself 120 times per 2nd, DC does not. Using Ac switches will work but the contacts will wear quickly and you will have to replace the swithces often.
I did this 1 time on a vehicle. I put custom side panel in the back of an SUV and installed a house blazon AC low-cal switch in the panel for the interior dome lights. In about i twelvemonth I could kickoff to notice the contacts wearing. Sometimes you had to throw the switch multiple times and wiggle it to go the lights to come on.

---

Posted Past: mike-south on 02/18/18 03:12pm Leviton makes 24VDC/3A rated switches in the common style, like their 12021-2W. Kinda pricey, though. Switching DC is different than switching Air-conditioning (in that location's no zero-crossing to break an arc), and I don't see any DC rating for the regular household switches you can go for <$one at a Lowe'south.

---

Posted By: Beak.Satellite on 02/eighteen/18 03:35pm

tommymsw wrote:

I am sure this has been asked, merely I have found little to no info on the internet. Can I replace 12v calorie-free switches with 110v firm switches?

1. To relieve money
2. I like the look of a make clean, white rocker switch over the kind of ugly little switches you see in many RVs.

I feel like my RV looks beautiful and like a firm, but then I take these really ugly (my opinion) light switches that wait like they vest in a shed.

I know I "can" switch them... But what is the downfall to doing then? Seems like everybody would if at that place was no problem with it.

Yeah! My 1988 Prevost is wired almost exclusively with 120V switches on all the 12V fixtures. If they fail prematurely, I gauge that would exist something beyond xxx years every bit a number appear to exist original.

---

What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Delight don't read anything into my mail service that's non in that location. If y'all disagree, that's OK.
Can't we all merely become along?

---

Posted Past: RLS7201 on 02/xviii/18 03:59pm

KD4UPL wrote:

Typical house switches are not rated for DC. When you break the DC circuit it'due south much harder to extinguish the arc. An AC arc extinguishes itself 120 times per 2nd, DC does not. Using AC switches will piece of work merely the contacts will habiliment quickly and you will have to replace the swithces ofttimes.
I did this one time on a vehicle. I put custom side panel in the dorsum of an SUV and installed a business firm type Air conditioning lite switch in the panel for the interior dome lights. In about 1 year I could start to notice the contacts wearing. Sometimes you had to throw the switch multiple times and wiggle it to get the lights to come on.

And then what is it about DC switches that makes them arc resistant?
I've seen nix inside DC switched only contacts of various metallurgy, springs & levers. I'grand looking at a plastic cased x amp DC switch right now that has some class of steel contacts.
Inquiring minds want to know.

Richard

---

95 Bounder 32H F53
460/528 stroker
Web Chief
MWPSchooners.com
First restriction job
1941 Hudson

---

Posted By: 2oldman on 02/18/18 04:02pm Here's an article on the subject field.

However, this commodity doesn't go specific about amperage, and I didn't think lighting, peculiarly LEDs, would present any significant amperage to require a specialized switch, which I dubiety is in the OP'due south RV anyhow.

* This post was edited 02/18/18 04:14pm past 2oldman *

---

Posted By: ScottG on 02/eighteen/18 04:25pm In that location is absolutely no problem with doing this as long every bit the sw has the needed current rating. Well-nigh resi 120 switches are far meliorate quality.

---

Posted By: tenbear on 02/18/xviii 05:08pm I merely remembered that I installed several 110V switches in my RV for 12V lights, it was many years ago. The RV came without any wall switches for the lights, some of the lights were hard to reach so I installed ordinary light switches for those lights and for the bathroom frazzle fan. I have non had whatsoever problems with the switches. All of my lights are at present LED but the exhaust fan is the original.

---

Posted By: mike-due south on 02/18/18 05:32pm

RLS7201 wrote:

So what is it about DC switches that makes them arc resistant?
I've seen nothing within DC switched simply contacts of various metallurgy, springs & levers.

One mutual divergence is for DC switches to have a strong snap action (not like the pop "quiet" Air-conditioning wall switches). Here's an commodity. For switches rated for both Ac and DC, the DC rating volition almost e'er accept lower electric current and/or voltage.

Circuit breakers are like. Nearly home ones aren't rated for apply in DC circuits. Square-D QO and QOB breakers are i of the few common models which may be rated for DC (although non in all sizes), simply merely 48 VDC, vs. 240 VAC.

---

Posted By: DrewE on 02/18/eighteen 06:35pm As others accept said, there are differences between AC and DC rated switches, and ofttimes switches are not DC rated and won't hold up as well for a DC load.

As a practical matter, you'll probably take no problems with using (decent) household lite switches for RV lights. I would not hesitate to exercise and then; the consequences of a declining low-cal switch are pretty beneficial--a light that won't plow on or won't plow off, which is not a safe hazard or anything like that. If there is physically enough infinite for the switches, become for it.

Dimmer switches won't work, of form, nor will fancy smart switches or other things that are electronic rather than mechanical in their action.

---

---

Posted By: Bobbo on 02/18/18 07:32pm Using switches not rated for DC on DC circuits can cause significant bug. The DC circuits arc MUCH more than AC circuits do when disconnecting (turning off the switch). You are likely to get a lot of pitting of contacts on the Ac rated switches and have gremlin type issues downwards the road. Get either a DC rated switch, or an Ac/DC rated switch.

---

Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Bundle 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

---

Posted By: D.E.Bishop on 02/eighteen/18 08:20pm I would suggest that those who have never seen a switch rated for both Air-conditioning and DC look up JR Products on line and read the specs for the switches they offer for RV utilize. You might try looking upward Sigma also.

Twenty years ago there were hundreds of thousands of relays used for switching ability for traffic point lights. The amend relays used a argent alloy for the contacts and they were replaced by solid state relay because they were switching on and off under a load and causing metal transfer betwixt the contacts.

Today's solid state switches use what is called a soft beginning, no current period when the gate is turned on and current rises at a very rapid rate. A nix kickoff is improve for non only the relay contacts but it was easier on the filaments of incandescent lamps and they lasted longer. Electro-mechanical relays cannot do this with whatever consistency and neither tin manual switches.

Every one of the members of this forum who is qualified on Submarines can adjure to how the ability to propulsion motors are always started at "0" volts and "0" amps. The amperage can rise very fast later the contacts are made but making or breaking at say 1500 amps can be catastrophic. Submarines to non accept well to catastrophic events.

I would approximate that a residential on/off wall switch rated for 15 amps, would exist capable of carrying nigh 5 amps at 12 VDC.

---

"I travel not to go anywhere, merely to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great thing is to become". R. L. Stevenson

David Bishop
2002 Winnebago Charlatan 32V
2009 GMC Canyon
Roadmaster 5000
BrakeBuddy Classic 2

---

Posted By: tommymsw on 02/18/18 09:14pm Size is not a problem. I accept plenty of room for the larger switches. But this is turning out to be Really difficult. At present only tin I non find any "good looking" switches, but they are REALLY expensive (compared to Air-conditioning) and I take been unable to detect any "3-way" switches (that is what I have now).

Something like THIS would be PERFECT as they are still small, only await squeamish. I tin also observe them in 3-fashion. I think I should start a concern making 12v switches
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072N6DRQP/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IKVG83FU7MHES&colid=18G4KIFGQMKTV&psc=0

---

Posted By: BurbMan on 02/19/18 06:14am You can purchase a switch like that at Abode Depot. When you say size is no issue are yous considering the mounting depth too every bit the surface area? Most exterior walls are not deep enough for a standard electric box then they have spacer rings to make upwards the depth, come across case below:

Since most RV lighting circuits are fused at <10A, 12vDC does non present the same shock/burn down hazard every bit household 120v, and then RV light switches don't accept to be mounted in the same insulating boxes as household switches.

You could always exercise something similar this, aforementioned size as a residential switch only surface mounted. Click picture show for link.

---

Posted By: 2oldman on 02/19/18 09:32am

Bobbo wrote:

The DC circuits arc MUCH more Air-conditioning circuits do when disconnecting (turning off the switch).

For lighting?

---

Posted Past: SoundGuy on 02/xix/18 09:51am

tommymsw wrote:

Something like THIS would be PERFECT as they are notwithstanding pocket-size, but look prissy. I can also find them in 3-way. I think I should start a business organization making 12v switches
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072N6DRQP/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IKVG83FU7MHES&colid=18G4KIFGQMKTV&psc=0

So if you lot similar 'em, purchase 'em ... what's the consequence? While the conversation about DC switching in submarines may exist interesting that hardly applies hither where I'd detect information technology difficult to imagine you'd be switching any DC loads at all that are significant plenty to brand any difference at all past using an AC switch such every bit y'all've illustrated. Actually, now that I recall about information technology my own Coachmen has several of these paddle switches that are used to turn interior lights on/off, heck even the exterior entry door light.

---

2012 Silverado 1500 Coiffure Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-60
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

---

Posted By: Gdetrailer on 02/xix/18 11:50am Low current DC switching should not exist an issue with most residential home type switches.

I have done that for years with no bug.

My offset TT I retrofitted the trailer with wall mounted Decora switches, making certain that no more than 2 20W incandescent lights (3A at 12V)were on each switch.

My current TT, I did the same although now, I have switched all the incandescent bulbs to Lower power LEDs..

DC arcing typically is not a problem at LOW CURRENT, higher current switching can present a problem with the arc not extinguishing due to the contacts non having enough distance.

I doubtable as long as the current is below 5A at 12V there should not be an issue..

On edit..

For kicks and grins I looked around my junk pile and pulled out a RV fixture that I replaced when remodeling my TTs..

Yeah, this is a single 20W 12V (1.3A )seedling incandescent fixture and the switch rating is 1A at 125 DC/ 4A 125V AC/ 2A 250V Ac!!!

Y'all read that right ONE AMP AT 12V DC to handle a bulb drawing 1.3A at 12V!!!

Yes, I suspect that if that cheesy switch which has been used in hundreds of thousands of RVs hasn't burned on down then I would retrieve that a residential dwelling switch which is rated 15A at 125V Air conditioning should be able to handle a couple of Amps at 12V.

* This post was edited 02/nineteen/18 12:41pm by Gdetrailer *

---

Posted By: DrewE on 02/19/xviii 12:35pm

2oldman wrote:

Bobbo wrote:

The DC circuits arc MUCH more than AC circuits do when disconnecting (turning off the switch).

For lighting?

Yes, for lighting. With AC power, the arc naturally self-extinguishes during the zero crossing that happens 120 times a second; that'southward missing with DC.

An inductive load is worse in either case, of form.

---

Posted By: 2oldman on 02/19/xviii 12:40pm

DrewE wrote:

2oldman wrote:

Bobbo wrote:

The DC circuits arc MUCH more than than Air conditioning circuits do when disconnecting (turning off the switch).

For lighting?

Yes, for lighting.

LED lighting? They draw nigh cipher.

---

Posted By: Bobbo on 02/19/xviii 08:23pm

2oldman wrote:

DrewE wrote:

2oldman wrote:

Bobbo wrote:

The DC circuits arc MUCH more than Ac circuits exercise when disconnecting (turning off the switch).

For lighting?

Yes, for lighting.

LED lighting? They draw near nothing.

All nosotros can give y'all is the principles involved. Yous volition have to work out the implementation yourself.

Principle - DC arcs much more than AC during disconnect.

Implementation - LED lights yes/no?

---

Can You Use A 120v Switch For 12v,

Source: https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29565950/print/true.cfm

Posted by: hutchinsbeint1962.blogspot.com

Share this post